New Cat Checklist: What to Buy and How to Prepare | Mittenwell

A gray tabby and white cat curled up asleep in a cardboard box — Photo: Ting Chen / CC BY-SA 2.0. Credits

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You do not need a mountain of gear to welcome a cat. A handful of good basics, set up thoughtfully, matters far more than a cart full of gadgets. Items marked Essential are the ones we would want in place before day one; Nice to have items can wait until you know your cat's preferences.

Before day one

A few phone calls and decisions now make the first week far calmer.

Choose a veterinarianEssentialFind a clinic near you and book a check-up for the first week or so. Some clinics are certified by the AAFP as Cat Friendly Practices, which is worth asking about if your cat is nervous.
Collect your cat's recordsEssentialAsk the shelter, rescue or breeder for vaccination dates, deworming and flea treatments, FeLV/FIV test results, spay or neuter status and the microchip number.
Find out what they eat nowEssentialBuy a small supply of the same food and litter so that nothing changes on day one. Switch gradually later if you want to.
Save emergency numbers in your phoneEssentialYour veterinarian, your nearest 24-hour emergency animal hospital, and an animal poison control line. In the US, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center is (888) 426-4435 and Pet Poison Helpline is (855) 764-7661; both may charge a consultation fee.
Agree house rules with everyone at homeEssentialWho feeds and scoops, which doors stay shut, no hands or feet as toys, and how children should approach the cat.
Compare pet insurance policiesNice to haveIf you want insurance, enroll before the first vet visit, as policies usually exclude conditions noted before cover begins.

Food and water

Keep feeding simple at first: the same food, measured meals, fresh water.

Complete and balanced cat foodEssentialLook for a statement that the food is complete and balanced for your cat's life stage. Kittens need a kitten or all-life-stages food.
A wide, shallow food bowlEssentialCeramic, glass or stainless steel is easy to clean. Many cats dislike deep bowls that press on their whiskers.
At least two water bowlsEssentialPlace them in different spots, away from food and well away from the litter box. Refresh the water daily.
Water fountainNice to haveSome cats drink more from moving water. Clean it and change the filter as directed.
Food puzzle or treat ballNice to haveMakes a cat work a little for part of their daily food, which is good for body and brain.
Cat treatsNice to haveUseful for training and building trust. Keep treats to a small part of the daily diet.

Litter

Litter box setup is the single biggest factor in avoiding house-soiling problems.

Litter boxes: one per cat, plus oneEssentialLarge and uncovered to start, ideally about one and a half times your cat's length. Low sides for kittens and seniors.
Unscented clumping litterEssentialOr whatever your cat is used to. About two inches deep.
Litter scoop and a lidded bin or bagsEssentialScoop at least once a day.
Enzyme cleanerEssentialBreaks down urine odor after accidents. Avoid ammonia-based cleaners, which smell like urine to a cat.
Litter matNice to haveCatches litter tracked from paws.

Comfort and safety

A secure cat is a calmer cat. Hiding places and height matter as much as a bed.

A sturdy carrierEssentialHard-sided with a top opening or a removable top makes vet visits much easier. Leave it out as a familiar resting place.
Hiding placesEssentialA covered bed or a simple cardboard box on its side in the safe room.
Somewhere soft to sleepEssentialA bed, a blanket or an old sweater. Many cats like a warm spot in the sun or up high.
A tall, sturdy scratching postEssentialTall enough for a full stretch and heavy enough not to wobble. Add a horizontal cardboard scratcher too.
IdentificationEssentialMake sure your cat is microchipped and that the chip is registered with your current details. If your cat wears a collar, use a breakaway (quick-release) collar with an ID tag.
Cat tree or wall shelvesNice to haveVertical space helps cats feel safe and lets more than one cat share a room.
Window perchNice to haveFree entertainment for indoor cats.
Pheromone diffuserNice to haveSynthetic feline facial pheromone products may help some cats feel calmer during the move.

Play

Daily play keeps indoor cats fit and helps a nervous cat relax.

A wand toyEssentialThe best toy for interactive play. Put it away after use: strings and ribbons are dangerous if swallowed.
A few small toysEssentialBalls, crinkle toys or kicker toys. Rotate them to keep them interesting.
A tunnel or cardboard boxesNice to haveCheap, and endlessly entertaining for most cats.

Grooming and health

A few basics let you get your cat used to handling from the start.

Brush or comb for your cat's coatEssentialA fine-toothed comb works for most coats; long-haired cats need a wide-toothed comb and a slicker brush.
Cat nail clippersEssentialTrim only the clear tip of each claw.
Cat toothbrush and cat toothpasteEssentialNever use human toothpaste, which is not meant to be swallowed.
Pill pockets or a pill gunNice to haveAsk your vet to show you how to give medicine before you ever need to.

Cat-proof your home

Walk through each room at cat height. Cats get into far more than you expect.

Remove lilies and other toxic plantsEssentialTrue lilies and daylilies can cause fatal kidney failure, even from pollen. Check bouquets that come into the house.
Lock away medications and chemicalsEssentialHuman medicines, cleaning products, rodent bait, antifreeze and concentrated essential oils.
Put away string and small objectsEssentialThread, yarn, hair ties, rubber bands, ribbon, tinsel and dental floss can cause life-threatening intestinal injuries if swallowed.
Keep dog flea products separateEssentialMany dog flea and tick products contain permethrin, which is highly toxic to cats.
Secure windows and balconiesEssentialUse sturdy screens on open windows. Cats can be badly hurt in falls.
Close off hazards and hiding holesEssentialBlock gaps behind appliances and inside furniture, keep the dryer and washer doors shut, and check inside before running them. Take care with recliners and sofa beds.
Tidy electrical cordsEssentialEspecially for kittens, who may chew them. Cord covers help.
Keep toilet lids downNice to haveImportant with small kittens, and it stops cats drinking from the bowl.

Set up the safe room

Most cats settle faster if they start in one quiet room rather than the whole house. A spare bedroom, home office or large bathroom works well. Before your cat arrives, put everything they need in that room:

A litter box on one side of the room, and food and water on the other.
A hiding place, such as a covered bed or a cardboard box on its side.
A scratching post, a bed or blanket, and a couple of toys.
The open carrier, so your cat can retreat into something that smells familiar.

Check the room at floor level for gaps behind furniture or appliances, close the window or make sure the screen is secure, and remove anything breakable or dangerous. When your cat arrives, open the carrier in the safe room and let them come out in their own time. Our guide to the first week takes it from there.

What you can skip

Scented litter and litter deodorizers. Many cats dislike strong smells. A clean box is the best odor control.
An automatic, self-cleaning litter box on day one. The noise and movement can put a new cat off. If you want one, wait until your cat is settled, keep a regular box available and introduce it gradually.
Milk. Cats do not need it, and many adult cats cannot digest it well.
A huge pile of toys. A wand toy and a few small toys, rotated, beat a basketful your cat ignores.
Essential oil diffusers and plug-in air fresheners. Concentrated essential oils can be harmful to cats, and strong scents are stressful.