Questions new cat parents ask

Both can be wonderful, so it comes down to your household. Kittens are fun, but they are a lot of work: they need frequent meals, constant supervision, a full course of vaccines and spay or neuter surgery, and plenty of patient training. Their adult personality is also still a guess.

Adult cats are often the easier choice for first-time owners, busy households and homes with very young children. Their temperament is already known, many are already litter trained and spayed or neutered, and shelter staff can usually tell you whether a particular cat enjoys children, dogs or other cats. Senior cats can be especially calm, affectionate companions.

It depends on the cats. Kittens and young cats often do well in pairs, and two kittens adopted together, especially littermates, can burn off energy on each other rather than on your ankles. Many adult cats, on the other hand, are perfectly content as the only cat, and some genuinely prefer it.

If you want two, adopting a bonded pair is the simplest route, because the relationship already exists. Ask the shelter or rescue whether a cat has lived happily with other cats before. See our guide to introductions if you are adding a cat to a home that already has one.

The essentials are a sturdy carrier, food and water bowls, the food your cat is already eating, at least one large litter box (one per cat plus one is the long-term goal), unscented clumping litter, a scratching post, a few hiding places, a bed or blanket and a couple of toys, including a wand toy. Our new cat checklist covers everything in detail, including what to cat-proof and what you can safely skip.

Costs vary a great deal depending on where you live, your cat's age and health, and the food and litter you choose, so we would rather not quote a figure that may not match your area. Plan for these regular costs:

• Food, litter and replacement supplies every month.
• A wellness exam and vaccines every year, and more frequent checks as your cat ages.
• Spay or neuter surgery and microchipping, if not already done.
• Flea and parasite prevention if your veterinarian recommends it.
• Dental cleanings, which many cats eventually need under anesthesia.

The cost people most often forget is the unexpected one: an illness or emergency can be expensive. Call a couple of local clinics for prices on routine care, and decide in advance whether you will rely on savings, pet insurance or both.

Most healthy adult cats cope well with being alone during a normal working day, as long as they have food, fresh water, clean litter boxes, safe places to rest and something to do, such as a window perch or a food puzzle. A good play session before you leave and when you come home helps a great deal.

Kittens, new arrivals and cats with medical needs need more company and supervision. For trips away, arrange for a trusted person or professional pet sitter to visit at least once a day, ideally twice. A cat should never be left for a day or more without anyone checking on them, because problems such as a urinary blockage or an empty water bowl can become serious quickly.

Yes. Hiding is the most common way cats cope with a new place, and many spend the first few days mostly out of sight. Let them. Start your cat in one quiet room, give them a covered bed or a cardboard box to hide in, and block off spaces you could not reach in an emergency, such as inside a box spring or behind a heavy appliance.

Sit in the room quietly, talk softly and let your cat come to you. Do not drag them out. If your cat is hiding and also not eating, not using the litter box, or seems unwell, call your veterinarian rather than waiting it out. Our first-week guide has a day-by-day plan.

Every cat is different. Some confident cats are exploring the house within a day or two, while shy cats, former strays and cats from busy shelters can take several weeks or longer to fully relax. Signs that your cat is settling include eating normally, using the litter box, grooming, sleeping in the open, playing and coming over to greet you. Progress is rarely a straight line, so a step back after a noisy day is normal.

A little less appetite on the first day is common, especially if the food has changed. Offer the food your cat was eating before, put it somewhere quiet and away from the litter box, and give them privacy.

Call your veterinarian if an adult cat has eaten nothing for about 24 hours, or sooner if your cat is a kitten, seems unwell, is vomiting, or is not drinking. Cats should not go without food for long: a cat that stops eating, particularly an overweight cat, can develop a serious liver condition called hepatic lipidosis.

Book a check-up within the first week or so, even if your cat seems healthy and came with records. Bring any paperwork from the shelter, rescue or breeder, including vaccination dates, test results and the microchip number. The first visit is a chance to plan vaccines, parasite prevention, spay or neuter surgery if needed and diet. If your cat shows signs of illness, such as sneezing with discharge, diarrhea, not eating or lethargy, call the clinic sooner.

If you plan to give your cat outdoor access, keep them indoors for at least the first few weeks so they learn that your home is their territory, and make sure they are microchipped, registered to your details, spayed or neutered and up to date on vaccines first. Many owners choose to keep cats indoors, or to offer safe outdoor time in a catio, an enclosed yard or on a harness. Our indoor vs outdoor guide weighs up the options.

Either can be a complete diet if the food is labeled as complete and balanced for your cat's life stage. Wet food adds water to the diet, which can help cats who drink little, and it is often helpful for weight control. Dry food is convenient and works well in food puzzles. Many cats do well on a mix of both. The most important things are a complete and balanced food, the right portion for your cat's body condition and plenty of fresh water. Your veterinarian can help you choose if your cat has medical needs. Read more in our feeding guide.

Most adult cats do well with at least two measured meals a day, and many prefer smaller, more frequent meals, which is closer to how cats naturally eat. Kittens need more frequent meals. Measure the daily amount rather than keeping the bowl topped up, because free feeding makes it easy for indoor cats to put on weight. The feeding guide on the package is a starting point only; adjust it based on your cat's body condition and your veterinarian's advice.

Milk is not necessary, and many adult cats do not digest lactose well, so cow's milk can cause diarrhea and stomach upset. Fresh water is all a cat needs to drink. If you want to offer a treat, a lactose-free milk made for cats is a better option in small amounts. Never give cow's milk to young kittens; orphaned kittens need a kitten milk replacer and veterinary guidance.

Cats evolved to get much of their water from their prey, so many drink less than you might expect, especially if they eat wet food. To encourage drinking, offer several water bowls in different places, away from food and litter, use wide shallow bowls, keep the water fresh, and consider a pet water fountain or adding wet food to the diet.

Drinking noticeably more than usual is worth a call to your veterinarian, as increased thirst and urination can be early signs of conditions such as kidney disease, diabetes or an overactive thyroid.

Keep these away from your cat: onions, garlic, chives and leeks in any form (including powders and soups), chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, grapes and raisins, raw yeast dough, cooked bones, and foods or products containing xylitol. Fatty scraps can upset the stomach. If your cat eats something toxic, call your veterinarian or an animal poison control service right away. The full list is in our feeding guide.

The usual rule is one litter box per cat plus one extra, so two boxes for one cat and three for two cats. Put them in different quiet locations rather than side by side, because two boxes next to each other count as one big box to a cat. In a multi-level home, have at least one box on each floor your cat uses. See our litter box guide for sizes and placement.

Many cats prefer a fine-grained, unscented, clumping litter about two inches deep. Scented litters and strong deodorizers are designed for human noses, and many cats dislike them. If your cat is used to a particular litter, start with that and change gradually, if at all. Scoop at least once a day.

Always rule out a medical problem first. Urinary tract inflammation, bladder stones and crystals, kidney disease, diabetes and arthritis can all cause a cat to stop using the box, so start with a call to your veterinarian. Once your cat has a clean bill of health, look at the box itself: is it clean enough, big enough, easy to get into and in a quiet spot? Stress and conflict with other cats are other common causes.

Yes. Indoor cats should still receive core vaccines. Feline panleukopenia virus is extremely hardy and can be carried into the home on shoes, clothes and hands, and the upper respiratory viruses covered by the core vaccine are very common. Rabies vaccination is legally required for cats in many US states and localities. Other vaccines, such as feline leukemia virus (FeLV), are recommended based on your cat's age and lifestyle, so your veterinarian will tailor the plan to your cat.

Many veterinarians now recommend spaying or neutering by about five months of age. Female cats can come into heat and become pregnant from as young as four months, so earlier is generally better. Spaying and neutering prevent unplanned litters and reduce behaviors such as yowling, roaming and urine spraying. Your veterinarian will advise on the right timing for your cat, including for adult cats that have not yet been fixed.

Often, yes. Fleas can come into the home on people and other pets, and indoor cats can pick up intestinal worms by hunting insects or rodents or by swallowing a flea while grooming. Heartworm, spread by mosquitoes, can also affect cats in many parts of the US. Ask your veterinarian which preventives make sense for your cat and where you live.

An occasional hairball can happen, particularly in long-haired cats, and regular brushing helps reduce them. But regular vomiting, whether of hair, food or foam, is not something to accept as normal. It can be a sign of conditions such as gastrointestinal disease, food sensitivities or other illness. If your cat vomits more than occasionally, is losing weight, or seems unwell, talk to your veterinarian. Repeated vomiting, or vomiting with lethargy or not eating, needs prompt attention.

Cats are very good at hiding pain, so the signs are usually subtle changes in behavior rather than crying out. Watch for:

• Hiding more, or being less interested in people and play.
• Reluctance to jump up or down, stiffness, or a change in the way they walk.
• Grooming less, or over-grooming one spot.
• Eating less, or changes in litter box habits.
• A hunched posture, squinted eyes, or irritability when touched.

If you notice any of these, book a veterinary visit. Arthritis in particular is very common in older cats and is often missed because the changes are gradual.

No. Never give your cat any human pain medication unless your veterinarian has specifically prescribed it. Acetaminophen (the active ingredient in Tylenol, called paracetamol in some countries) can kill a cat, even in a small dose. Ibuprofen, naproxen and aspirin are also dangerous. If your cat has swallowed any human medication, contact your veterinarian or an animal poison control service immediately. Your veterinarian can prescribe pain relief that is safe for cats.

It depends on your finances and how you would handle a large, unexpected bill. Insurance can make expensive emergency or specialist care more manageable, while some people prefer to put money aside in a dedicated savings account instead. If you are considering insurance, compare policies carefully, look at what is excluded, including pre-existing conditions and waiting periods, and consider enrolling while your cat is young and healthy.

Scratching is a normal, necessary behavior: it keeps claws healthy, stretches muscles and leaves scent and visual marks. You cannot stop it, but you can redirect it. Offer a tall, heavy scratching post that does not wobble, plus a horizontal scratcher, and put them right next to the furniture your cat is targeting and near where they sleep. Reward your cat when they use the post, make the furniture less appealing for a while with a throw or double-sided tape, and keep claws trimmed. Our behavior guide has more ideas.

We do not recommend it. Declawing is not a nail trim: it is the surgical amputation of the last bone of each toe, and major veterinary organizations oppose it as an elective procedure. It can cause lasting pain and lead to behavior problems such as litter box avoidance or biting. Scratching posts, regular nail trims and soft nail caps are effective alternatives.

Cats are naturally most active around dawn and dusk, and a cat that has slept all day while you were out will often have energy to spare in the evening. To help, schedule an energetic play session with a wand toy shortly before bedtime, then offer a meal afterwards, which mimics the natural hunt, eat, groom and sleep cycle. Food puzzles and an automatic feeder for an early-morning snack can help early risers.

Many cats enjoy petting only up to a point, and some find long strokes along the back or touches on the belly overstimulating. Watch for warning signs such as a swishing or thumping tail, rippling skin, ears turning sideways or back, or your cat turning their head toward your hand. Stop before you reach that point, keep sessions short and focus on the cheeks, chin and the base of the ears, which most cats prefer. A sudden change in tolerance to touch can be a sign of pain, so mention it to your veterinarian.

No. Cats often purr when relaxed and content, but they also purr when they are stressed, frightened, in pain or unwell, and some purr while giving birth or when very ill. Purring seems to be a way of communicating and self-soothing as well as pleasure, so read it together with your cat's body language and behavior.

Many cats and dogs live together happily, but it depends on the individuals. A calm dog that responds well to commands and a confident cat are the easiest combination; a dog with a strong chase drive may never be safe around cats. Introduce them slowly, keep the dog on a leash during early meetings, and make sure your cat always has escape routes and high places the dog cannot reach. The first-week guide walks through the process.